Sunday, 14 March 2021

The natural hair lie…and it ain’t that deep. How to really grow long 4c hair.


I arrived in the UK from West Africa Nigeria, with a short tight afro and thrown into the world of straight, loose curls and relaxed hair. And of course, I had to join the bandwagon! Bless my mother she would do anything for me, when it comes to hair and beauty (Love you mum! Happy Mother’s Day). So, we trudge to the beauty supply store to pick up a relaxer and we sat down to do the so-called dirty deed. I did not last for a year! It did not look how I wanted, it did not feel how I wanted, I was losing so much hair and I did not have any idea how to take care of it. I was starting to realise hair formed such a big part of a woman’s identity and I wanted to be more than my rubbish hair. So back to natural hair it was and to be honest it was perfect timing. My mum got busier with work and she had already taught me how to do braiding. I was only 14 and could wear my hair kind of crazy for a while with little judgement from the world.

But my hair growth progress was slow, it broke a lot, was dry and appeared to be thinning at times, despite multiple trims trying to keep it healthy. I started University in 2010 and before then the black hair/natural hair movement had started to gain traction in America, but as it gained popularity in the digital world, UK started to get on board. YouTube became my go to place for getting natural hair advice. It was a lot of learning about texture, porosity, protein, moisture balance and it was the first time I understood I had a mixture of hair textures, 4c and loose 4b with fine strands and thin hair to boot! Lucky me!


I kept on with the natural hair. When I started working full time, I discovered a blog on growing waist length hair and low and behold I saw someone who had relaxed hair like I did all those years ago and her hair was growing long with wigs. So, I started this journey also. My progress was slow frustrating and disheartening when I saw natural girls, I had watched on YouTube succumbing to the ‘creamy crack’. I was constantly limited by shedding and breakage (which I minimised by finger detangling) and the biggest issue SINGLE STRAND KNOTS. Which to this day I have no solutions for as I have tried almost everything? I even tried locking but never fully committed. After 4 years I revisited the blog that started the whole length journey and realised I missed a KEY detail. Our girl was TEXLAXED!!

I do not have to tell you what happened next. I started the search slowly as I could not fully commit. I felt I was turning back on identity, culture, the race struggle. Nevertheless, I continued looking for videos on how this was done and while some results absolutely terrified me, some results were surprisingly familiar…too familiar! In Gus’s voice from Recess, ‘Hey, those look awfully like those natural haired girls who could get their hair straight with little effort, with 4c hair hanging loose onto their shoulders!!!!!’ They were texlaxed! THEY WERE TEXLAXED Y’ALLL! And the really amusing thing is that texlaxing (when done right) appears to achieve similar growth rate as those with looser hair textures (unless you are genetically inclined to have long hair).

So, I have been stressed for the last 16 years to do the impossible and the last 10 years following advice on the internet when we may be starting from different baselines. In the same breath I was well pissed off, wanted to throw a massive rock but then decided to write this blog because life is too short and hair grows back, unless it can’t, and you have wigs and scarves! Thank God for those as well! Hair has so many meanings; it is part of how we show the world how we want to be addressed; it can be our identity. While the natural hair movement has been a useful tool to liberate people out of what may have appeared to be the only option, I think the digital world can sometimes only show us what we want to see, not always the truth. Using relaxer is not that deep. If you want to get political, cultural, religious…you can do so in the comments! As for me, whatever I do from this point on to my hair is for me!


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